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It is
interesting to have a close look at the coastline as it recedes into
the distance. The lighthouse of Cordouan on the end of the Pointe de
Grave, is lit by the morning sun.
The general idea of this route is to drive southwards by closely
following the left bank of the Gironde until Margaux and to come back
to the Pointe de Grave to catch the ferry to Royan, by using the N215
road through Saint Laurent, Lesparre and Le Verdon.
From Le Verdon to Bégadan
From Royan, the
crossing of the Gironde by car-ferry from Royan-Pointe de Grave, which
takes about half an hour, is an excellent way to start the day. It is
interesting to have a close look at the coastline as it recedes into
the distance. The lighthouse of Cordouan on the end of the Pointe de
Grave, is lit by the morning sun.
The general idea of this route is to drive southwards by closely
following the left bank of the Gironde until Margaux and to come back
to the Pointe de Grave to catch the ferry to Royan, by using the N215
road through Saint Laurent, Lesparre and Le Verdon.
After leaving the ferry, take the direction of Le Verdon and follow
the N215 road for about twelve kilometres. Then turn left to take the
D1 road in the direction of Saint-Vivien-de-Médoc. In Saint-Vivien,
take the D2 in the direction of Valeyrac. This secondary road is the
main way down to Margaux. You are in the Médoc area.
You will very quickly notice signs all along the
road which invite you for a wine tasting. It will be the same all day
long. It is not surprising when one understands that 1 500 wine growers
work within the Medoc Vineyard with an annual production of more than
90 million bottles!
If it is your first visit in this northern part of
the Médoc wine area, we recommend that you go directly to Bégadan,
by taking D3 on the left to Port-de-By, to visit the Château La Tour
de By.
The first thing to do is to climb up the tower located in the
middle of the vines. The view over the vineyard and the Gironde is
magnificent. The conducted tour of the wine cellars, showing the
traditional and modern techniques, is very informative and together
with the wine tasting, is the best introduction to the Médoc when one
arrives in the North. The list of wines for sale is very large, with a
good quality/price ratio.
La Tour de By 93 vintage was selected by the Royal Court of England to
be served at the Royal Wedding of Prince Edward and Sophie in June
1999 (see The Daily Telegraph, Monday June 21, 1999).
From
Bégadan to Saint-Estèphe
From
Bégadan, by taking D3 through Civrac, it is only a few kilometres to
Blaignan where the vineyard of the Château Tour-Haut-Caussan with its
windmill on a hill, deserves a visit for the landscape and the high
quality of this ‘cru bourgeois’ wine.
Another good reason for driving by Blaignan is to stop at the craft
factory which produces
noisetines pralinées, chocolate hazelnuts, of the Médoc.
In this northern part of Médoc, the terrains to be visited are on
high ground, Bégadan, Civrac, Couquèques, Blaignan, Saint-Ysans,
Ordonnac. Their wines are value for money and the wine enthusiast will
be tempted to return periodically to fill his cellar !
But today, it's time to return to Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne where one
enters the Haut-Médoc appellation and to take the D2 which leads to
Saint-Estèphe.
A big illustrated map painted on a wall of the ‘Maison
du Vin’, situated in the centre of the town, makes it easy to locate
the Châteaux.
The vineyards cover the plateau dominating the Gironde.
Outside of the town, visit the cellar of the Société de Vinification
de Saint-Estèphe. The wines of this co-operative cellar are produced
under the brand name of ' Marquis de Saint-Estèphe'.
One can also visit
the Château Pomys which offers ‘Crus Bourgeois’ wines. Château
Pomys and Château Saint-Estèphe are both good value and worthy of
the Saint-Estèphe appellation.
After Saint-Estèphe, keep following
the D2 in the direction of Pauillac. After several kilometres the
Château Cos d' Estournel, on the left-hand side of the road, is worth
visiting for its picturesque architecture and the history of its
construction.
Pauillac and Saint-Julien-Beycheveylle
One arrives
very quickly in the appellation Pauillac, seen by some people as the
capital of the Médoc . Pauillac possesses three ‘Premiers Grands
Crus Classés’, Château Lafite-Rothschild and Château
Mouton-Rothschild, both on the right-hand side of the D2, to the North
of the town of Pauillac, and Château Latour in the South.
At Pauillac, it is pleasant to walk along the quay and have a drink or
eat on a terrace from where you can see the Gironde.
South of Pauillac, still on the D2, one can see on the left, the
famous tower of Château Latour and having passed through Saint
Julien's village, discover the Château Beycheveylle and its park,
which are particularly attractive. The Château is magnificent and
open to visitors every weekday.
From
Saint-Julien to Margaux
One leaves the
Saint Julien appellation to cross terrains which produce the excellent
Haut-Médoc wines. To try these for yourself, you can stop at
Cussac-Fort-Médoc, to visit the Château Lacour-Jacquet, on the
left-hand side of the D2. The family welcome there is very warm and
the wines have won several well-known awards.
Before continuing along the road towards Margaux, it is worth driving
to Fort-Médoc for the view over the Gironde.
In Margaux, park in front of the entrance to the park of the Château
Margaux and admire the classic frontage of the building constructed at
the beginning of the 19th century.
As well as that, it is
in Margaux that the famous chocolates in the shape of twigs are made.
Moulis
and Listrac
After Margaux,
we follow our route to visit both of the last communal appellations
Médoc, Moulis and Listrac, which offer their ‘Crus Bourgeois’
wines. One can drive back by the D2 up to Tayac and take the small
road on the left towards Moulis.
Moulis is the smallest appellation Médoc but a terrain of vintage
wines. To judge it, please visit the Château Biston-Brillette, a
family business, which produces a remarkable Cru Bourgeois wine and
where you can buy a very wide range of vintages.
In Listrac, two kilometres after Moulis, the Cave de Vinification de
Listrac-Médoc deserves a visit. Besides the 'Grand Listrac label’,
the cellar produces owners' wines. The choice of wines and vintages is
particularly rich.
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